Introduction:
The ZZ plant, while resilient and adaptable, does have its weaknesses. It can sometimes face challenges that gradually weaken it without obvious signs. In this blog I’ll provide a solution to address these issues.
Placement:
To start, let's discuss the best placement for a ZZ plant to help it thrive. Ideally, a ZZ plant should be placed in an area with bright, indirect light. You can keep it near a window that receives ample indirect light for several hours or use grow lights. However, if ideal conditions are not possible, the plant can also adapt to lower light conditions, though it will not grow as quickly or healthily in such environments. It may become a bit leggy and spindly under these conditions.
Temperature requirement:
Regarding temperature and humidity, most home environments are suitable for ZZ plants as long as conditions are relatively stable and not extreme. They are sensitive to frost, cold drafts, and full sun exposure unless they have been properly acclimated.
Soil collection;
Now, about the soil requirements: ZZ plants have rhizomes that store water, allowing them to go long periods without watering. This means they need well-draining soil to prevent root rot. You can use a succulent or cactus mix, or create your own mix with components like coconut coir, potting soil, pine bark, perlite, and sand. Always ensure your pots have drainage holes.
Repotting;
When repotting, only move the plant to a pot that is the next size up. A pot that is too large can hold excess water, which can lead to root rot, especially if the root system isn't large enough to use up the extra moisture.
Fertilization Process:
Fertilizing ZZ plants is straightforward. They have low nutrient needs, so over-fertilizing can do more harm than good. I recommend using a general houseplant fertilizer at half strength once a month during the growing season. When growth slows, reduce the fertilizer to a quarter strength. In cooler climates, you might skip fertilizing during the winter months.
Prevention:
To prevent fertilizer burn, consider flushing the soil with water every three to four watering by placing the plant in the shower or outside and letting water run through the soil. This helps remove excess salts that may build up.
Pruning:
ZZ plants require minimal pruning. Regularly remove yellow or dead leaves using clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to maintain the plant's appearance. Unlike some other plants, ZZ plants naturally become fuller and more attractive over time. Occasionally, you can mist the leaves and wipe them with a microfiber cloth to keep them shiny and promote photosynthesis.
Pest Attack:
As for pests, ZZ plants are relatively resistant. However, mealybugs or spider mites may occasionally appear. If you encounter pests, treating them with insecticidal soap or systemic insecticides should be effective. The dry soil environment of ZZ plants also helps reduce the likelihood of fungus gnats. If you do see fungus gnats, it’s often a sign of overwatering.
Watering Process:
Watering is crucial. Overwatering is a common mistake with ZZ plants and can lead to root rot. Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. In typical indoor conditions, this may mean watering every three to four weeks, or even less frequently. Check soil moisture with a dowel or moisture meter. If the soil is dry, water thoroughly.
Top\bottom Watering:
I use a method of both bottom and top watering. Place the plant in a bowl and water from the top, then let it sit in the water at the bottom of the bowl for about five minutes before draining excess water. This method helps ensure the soil is evenly moist and reduces the chances of fungus gnats.
Propagation process:
There are ways to propagate a ZZ plant, and I’ll explain how you can do each one easily and successfully. Stay with me until the end; the last method will almost certainly guarantee a successful propagation, and as a bonus, I'll also show you how I water my ZZ plants to keep them thriving.
Leaf Propagation:
Start by selecting leaves from the mother plant in areas where their removal won’t make the plant look uneven or sparse. Removing leaves from the bottom of each stem usually works well. I disinfect my pruners before cutting the leaves off, as tearing them might not result in a clean cut.
Water Propagation:
For water propagation, fill a bowl with water. Cut a piece of Styrofoam to fit inside the bowl and make notches around the edge for each leaf. Insert the leaves into the notches, ensuring the bottom of each leaf is submerged in the water. Place the Styrofoam with the leaves in the bowl and wait for the roots to develop. It’s really that simple.
Soil Propagation:
For soil propagation, prepare a mix of equal parts peat, core, and perlite. Fill a small pot with this soil and lightly compact it so the leaves stay in place. Create small trenches in the soil with a wooden dowel, place each leaf into these trenches, and compact the soil around them. Space the leaves apart to ensure they grow into evenly spaced plants. Water the soil just enough to moisten it, and add more water when the area dries out. Place the pot in medium to bright indirect light. This method takes time to produce mature plants, but your efforts will be worth it, and you’ll enjoy the process
.
Cuttings;
The next method involves using cuttings. This method gives you a head start compared to leaf propagation but requires more material from the mother plant. Start with sanitized pruners and choose a cutting with three to four sets of leaves, though smaller cuttings are possible if you don’t mind a smaller head start. Remove the bottom set of leaves and make a 45-degree angle cut just below the bottom node.
For water propagation, use a glass or plastic container, preferably with a small opening to prevent the cutting from falling in, and fill it with room temperature water. It’s generally fine to use tap water, though some plants are more sensitive. Place the cutting in the water, making sure the node is submerged. Change the water every few days to a week. After several weeks, tiny roots will start to emerge, which is fascinating to watch.
For soil propagation, use the same mix as for leaf propagation. Apply rooting hormone to the tip of your cutting and plant it in the soil, ensuring the node is submerged. Place the pot in medium to bright indirect light and wait for roots to appear. Once roots are visible, start fertilizing with a general-purpose houseplant fertilizer at half strength every two weeks. If propagating in water, once the roots are one to two inches long, transplant the cutting into soil. Water heavily for the first two weeks after transplanting, then gradually reduce watering to help the plant adjust from water to soil.
Division:
Finally, propagation by division allows you to start with a larger plant compared to leaf or stem propagation and offers the highest chance of success. However, it requires a very large plant or one that you’re willing to divide significantly. Start by choosing a segment of the plant for division. Remove the plant from its pot and gently remove the soil to uncover the rhizome, taking care not to injure any part of the plant.
Select a pot slightly larger than the rhizome, keeping in mind that ZZ plants prefer to be snug and on the dry side. Use a soil mix of two parts core, one part perlite, and one part smaller pine bark for a slightly drier mix. Fill the pot with just enough soil to keep the division at the same level as it was in the previous pot. Center the plant, fill in around it with soil, and lightly compact it. Water thoroughly and place the pot in medium to bright indirect light.
